Don't part with your illusions. When they are gone you may still exist, but you have ceased to live ------ Mark Twain
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
Lily Pad Paradise
Here's a recent shot from a paddling outing on the Brule River and Northern Light Lake along the Gunflint Trail in northeast Minnesota. This is such a beautiful location to spend the day paddling. You start out paddling downstream along the Brule River and eventually the river empties into Northern Light Lake. This shot was taken near where the river meets the lake. Where the two waters meet there are lily pads everywhere. For the past few years I've been trying to get a nice shot of lily pads with anice sky full of summer clouds. This is my favorite attempt so far at this type of shot.
Friday, June 24, 2011
Red Yuca
A red yuca blossom which is much smaller than the native New Mexico yuccas with white blossoms.
Over the San Juan Mountains
I was somewhat alarmed at what I saw down the road after leaving Alamosa. I did get into some rain and, at the higher elevations, some snow. But it wasn't really all that bad. The temperature was 49 degrees with a fairly strong wind. By the time I got to the summit at Wolf Creek Pass, (elevation 10,685 feet) the temperature had dropped to 25 degrees. It warmed back up once over the mountains.
On the way up to the summit at Wolf Creek Pass.
On the other side of the San Juan Mountains.
Love this! A nice shot purely by chance! It helps when you roll down the window and the sun comes out for a second.
Monday, June 20, 2011
The Sun's Last Glow Before Night Falls
September 8, .. - - Southwest MontanaExtremely hazy skies made for a strange, muted, monochromatic sunset.
A week later, somewhat clearer skies prevailed.
September 15, .. - - Southwest Montana
Saturday, June 18, 2011
Cycling in a Heatwave... Making Friends with Florals
While this is good advice for some, changing upon arrival is not an option in my line of work. I have meetings in different parts of the city in the course of the workday, and there is no reasonable opportunity to change upon arrival prior to joining the meetings. Plus, I am on a tight schedule and changing a half a dozen times a day would be ludicrous.
So, what to do? Well, the Boston Globe and Bike Snob have already quoted me on this, but I've never actually written it in a Lovely Bicycle post: I wear fabrics with prints, which helps to disguise the one part of commuting in the heat we cannot control - sweat! "Eww gross!" - I know. But a reality none the less!
The best sort of prints for this purpose are small and detailed with some tonal variation - such as florals. This tricks the eye into not noticing additional tonal variations that happen from sweat stains. Stripes, polka dots, and other busy prints can work as well - but micro-florals and paisleys are particularly effective, because the patterns they form are organic. It may seem too simple of a solution, but this really is an amazing technique at making a sweat-soaked blouse, skirt, or dress look no different from a dry one.
I wore this dress to a meeting after cycling in it for 30 minutes in intense heat and humidity. Can you tell it's wet and disgusting? My colleagues could not, and complimented me on staying so cool in the heat. Yeah, right! Well, at least I can fake it with florals.
Bicycle Bans in Parks and Cemeteries
A number of public and private parks in the Boston area do not permit bicycles on the premises. Some cyclists complain about the ban, because the green spaces make for pleasant and convenient shortcuts through congested parts of town - for instance, thePublic Garden and Harvard Yard. Others find it perfectly reasonable that some parks are reserved for being enjoyed at walking pace. I am mostly in the latter camp, and so it did not bother me to learn that the historicMt. Auburn Cemetery I planned to finally visit this weekend did not allow bikes.
Amorbid paradise of Victorian design known as America's first garden cemetery,this enormous park offers visitors miles of roads andwinding trails. There are ponds, botanical gardens, wild woodsy areas, birdwatching opportunities, and a number of remarkable architectural landmarks. Although the cemetery is still active, the administration promotes it as a park andencourages both local visitors and tourists. A brief list of rules asks to be respectful and refrain from activities such as picnicking, sunbathing, jogging and cycling. However, as I learned during my visit, motor vehicles are allowed. The ban on bicycles is not part of a vehicular ban, but a recreational one, whichputs things in a different light. What of those who use bicycles for transportation? The reasoning behind cars being permitted, is that it can be challenging for the average person to explore the vast grounds on foot. The noise and exhaust fumes the cars produce, as well their effect on the pedestrian visitor experience (those walking must stop and move aside in order for a car to pass on the narrow roads) are all excused to accommodate their transportational function. Would bicycles really be more of anuisance? It seems to me the logical and fair solution would be to either close the park to vehicles entirely (except for maintenance work and funeral processions, of course), or to allow both cars and bicycles.
Rules regarding bicycles in parks are a reflection of cultural perceptions. Are bicycles inherently offensive in a cemetery because the very sight of them suggests recreation? Or are they legitimate vehicles that - unlike cars - will help protect the tranquil nature of the grounds, flora and fauna?
Thursday, June 16, 2011
Tennessee
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
The on going soft shell test @ CT
I promised this soft shell review/comparison last fall. Several things got in the way from getting it done.
The trivial excuses don't really matter. But what does matter and what has influenced this comparison the most is the newest fabrics that have been incorporated into these garments. Both Gortex and Polartec are represented here. As climbers we have never had it so good.
There are so many really great fabrics available that you have to really work hard to get a bad one.
But the best fabrics simply point out no matter how good the fabric is the fit and patterns of these soft shells are whatreally make or break them.
As far as function in concerned you would be hard pressed to better the original Dachstein sweater for breathability, stretch, warmth and being weather proof in wind, rain and snow.
Weight and bulk it iseasy enough to better however in a big boiled wool sweater. But as hard as it might be to believe, when it comes to soft shell comparisons the Dachsteinis not a bad place to start.
I look for a couple of very specific attributes for a soft shell fabric and the garment's pattern cut. The first is how "soft" is it? I want my soft shells to stretch and be comfortable from the inside out. Ideally they will stretch a lot. That means a garment I can fit pretty tightly but never have it bind on difficult gymnastic style climbing. And a soft interior that keep them from feeling clammy when I am working hard.
Generally I'll want to tuck my soft shell jacket's tail into my harness and never have it pull out while climbing. That means a preference for longer than normal hem line and hopefully a sophisticated pattern the keeps the hem down when my arms go up. Up? As in swing an ice tool or making that long reach to clip a fixed pin. When you have to stretch to your max it is also nice to not pull your cuff over the glove and break the seal there. I want to keep the seal tight there and not have a gapfor wind, water or snow sneaking in. That with a long gauntlet glove and shorter gloves as well. It is a tall order.
I ski in my soft shells on occasion, walk the dog and may be even ride my bike or trail run in them if the weather is bad enough. But I have better clothing for all those activities than a soft shell generally. So my likes and dislikes and how I judge a soft shell is based on what I like about them for climbing. If you read the last bit on climbing packs or "climbing sacs" in part three of that commentary you will get the idea of just how climbing specific my own uses are and because of that bias how my own judgement calls are attained. Pays to remember while I live in the rainy and wet PNW I seldom climb in the rain and I really like cold weather climbing. So while water proof protection is nice I don't typically require it. But what I do require is the best breathability any of the newest fabrics has to offer
I'll take breathability over water resistance every time. I haven't used a soft shell for a couple of seasons now until this Spring. I've been lucky enough to try some of the best new fabrics in several different garments and I am still testing them. As much as a fabric will define the performance of a garment, the design of the garment will also define in part just how well a fabric will perform. It is a synergistic combination of fabric and pattern. As my comparison and reviews will point out you have to have both the best pattern and the best fabrics to compete these days.
I am really happy that I have gone back and given the current crop of soft shells a try. Because things have changed for the better with these garments...all of them... in just a few seasons.. As much as I like the Arcteryx Atom LT as my main outer garment for the light weight and warmth I have never been happy with its durability on anything but pure ice routes. Heaven forbid you ever run one up against the rocks or actually have to climb anything mixed and get it dirty. You would likely shred the Atom quickly on Canadian limestone or Chamonix granite on a climb like the one pictured below.
The newest soft shells breath better, are more water resistant, can be lighter and can in the right material offer more protection from the typical climbers abuse of mixed rock and sharp tools..
The blog is acting up a bit so composing a new review has been slowed way down. I will get it done and published in the next few weeks. Just wanted to give you a heads up. .
Monday, June 13, 2011
Magic Light in the Snowy Forest
Earlier this week after photographing an AMAZING sunrise at Horseshoe Bay on Lake Superior I was walking back to the car when I came across this scene. About 4 inches of light, fluffy snow had fallen the previous night and every now and then a wind gust would kick up and blow snow from the trees. When I saw the sunlight shining through this part of the forest I instantly knew the shot I wanted to get. I set up my tripod and waited for another gust of wind. I didn't have to wait long. About two minutes after I was set up the wind came up and blew a bunch of snow from the trees down into the light. It was a magical scene and I'm glad I was there to photograph it!
Wednesday, June 8, 2011
Assateague Island :: The Beach
But those tracks were from horses brought in by some campers. The big black ones are Percheron horses. Really big ones.
Monday, June 6, 2011
Asian Trending: ‘Filipino High Tea’
When I am in Cebu I always stop by at Café Laguna for some Filipino merienda indulgence. My all-time favourite here is mangga (mango), puto (sticky rice) and sikwate (chocolate drink/dip from traditionally processed cocoa tablets). My family used to have this as breakfast during the weekends eons back when we were kids.
Anywho, I was about to order the usual mangga-puto-sikwate fare when I caught sight of ‘Filipino High Tea’ for only Php 310.00 on the menu, good for 2 people.
Here’s what you get for the Filipino High Tea:
- A pot of ‘pandan’ tea with 2 cups
- Mini ‘puto’ (rice bread) burgers with shredded chicken adobo
- Mini banana turon covered with caramelized brown sugar and sesame seeds
- Espasol wrapped in banana leaves
- Mini ‘bibingka’ (rice cake) topped with kesong puti (white cheese) and itlog maalat (salted egg), and garnished with coconut flakes.
‘Pandan’ tea and ‘espasol’.
‘Turon’ and mini ‘puto’ burgers with shreds of adobo.
The ‘bibingka’ (rice cake with cheese, egg and coconut flakes).
I’m not a sweet tooth type but I enjoyed the banana turon and bibingka while Dutchman says the pandan tea tasted like boiled socks, lol. Rating is 4 stars out of 5!
Tip to Café Laguna: partner with beach resorts, hotels, tours and travel agencies all over Cebu to include the ‘Filipino High Tea’ (or Filipino/Cebuano Merienda) at any Café Laguna branch as part of the city tour. Not only you will be promoting your restaurant but this ultimately promotes Filipino cuisine as well. Just think about the (massive) opportunity. It’s about time!
Sunday, June 5, 2011
Autumn is Coming...
September is still a great month to climb, one of my favorites actually. Although the weather can be variable, it is still very pleasant for the most part. Climbing in September can also lead to a lot more solitude on a mountain where that is sometimes hard to find. Routes like the Emmons and the Kautz, which can be extremely busy during mid-summer, turn into full-on wilderness experiences in September. Something very notable about this year that is different from previous ones is that the routes still have a lot more snow on them than normally would be present in late August. This means instead of climbing glacial skeleton and having to wind around what may seem like endless fields of huge crevasses to reach the summit, climbers are treated to what can only be described as excellent climbing!
There are a few changes coming in the next couple of weeks of which climbers should be aware. One is that the ranger stations where you register to climb will no longer be open on their summer hours. After Labor Day the Longmire WIC, White River WIC and the Climbing Information Center will all still be open but on a more limited basis. Stay tuned for the exact hours,which we will be posting as we get confirmation on the schedules. Climbing rangers will be around throughout September, but on a more limited basis. So make sure to get your urgent questions answered by a ranger when you register.
Come on out and enjoy this next season change on Rainier. There is still a lot of climbing to be done, and watching the leaves change color from 14,000' is a pretty spectacular sight!
Thursday, June 2, 2011
It's A Family Affair
(Peter Cokinos #37)
Wilson Tigers played Coolidge a few weeks ago which is not anything new. Both high schools have been around for a very long time. Our family has a fairly decent showing at Wilson starting in the thirties with Uncle Nick, jumping up to the fifties when my brother and sister both attended, and now my daughter is there as well.
(Class of 1954 meets Class of )
So it was a bit of a family reunion for us when the championship football team of 1952, which my brother, Pete was on, got together for their reunion and were paraded out at half time. Not only did the team have an undefeated season, but they went on to beat Western for the Interhigh Title and St John's for the City Title as well. Even a cheerleader was able to make it back.
So Brother Pete and Alice drove in from Michigan, and Mom and Dad and Sis et al got out the green and white, and off we went to a somewhat different school from 1952. (The bleachers and the field are in the same place, but I'll bet they didn't have Chuck Brown playing during time outs back then.) The field has just been refurbished and a new "press box" has been erected which everyone tripped over. What hasn't changed is a stand full of kids cheering their teams. What has changed are the cheers and the cheer leaders. At one point a cheer war broke out complete with air horns. Not exactly sportsmanlike. And it didn't help us win either. Wilson was defeated 34-13. But winning isn't everything as the school motto goes: "Haec olim meninissee juvabit." ("In days to come, it will please us to remember this"-from Vergil's Aeneid)
Good thing Wilson still has a Latin teacher.
Phend-Fisher Family Reunion Ledger - 1897
According to the newspaper article, published on June 30, 1897 in The Nappanee News, (and the ledger) Jacob and Louisa were celebrating the anniversary of their 69th birthday which puts their year of birth at 1828. The gravemarker inscription says that Jacob was born on June 27, 1828 and that Louisa was born on June 27, 1829. Her inscription also says that she died on April 4, 1897 which was 2 1/2 months BEFORE the celebration!
[notes and "missing" information within brackets, commas were added in some of the name lists] From the ledger:
Nappanee
The Phend Family was called to order
June 27. 1897
being being [sic] the 69 birthday aniversery of Jacob and Louisa Phend. there was a family gathering, at their residence on Saturday evening
[first 3 words -A formal Program- were crossed out] Meeting was caled to order at 5:30 by Clarance Phend
An informal Program was rendered
Miss Grace Tintsman Presiding at the Organ
Scripture reading by Chris Phend. Prayer by Christian Ringgenburg opened the program of singing
welcome addrss by Father Phend responce by Henry Phend. declamation by Do [Dora ?] Phend. the Golden Sunbeam. Dare to be true, by Ralph Ernest. A Happy little boy by Freddie Ernest. Select Reading by Carrie Phend.
Supper was Served
[Attending] were
[John Phend a]nd wife and [children] william, Harl, Edwin, Luly.
Christian Phend wife and children Clarance, Orian, Carrie, Delvin, Hattie, Harry, Iva, Bell, Grover, waldo & Clifford
Jacob J. Phend wife and children Moses, Catie, Raman, Surelda & Samuel Phend wife and children Lillie, Quince, Clide, Dora Arlington & Howard. John Ernest wife and children Ralph and Freddie
William Phend wife and child Owen. Harl Phend wife and 2 children Goldie and Ivo. Jacob Seniff wife and 2 children Archie and Iva. Mrs. Caraline Ringenberg. Rev. Christian ringenburg. Claud & Goldie Ringenberger. Rev Hofferbert wife and child Nellie.
The family consists of Father mother six children, thirty two grandchildren [and] five great grand chldren.
A permanent organization was Effected with Henry Phend as President. Christian Phend assistant. Mrs John Ernest Secretary and a board of directers as follows. Clarance Phend, John and Elisabeth Phend, Lillie Phend.a motion was made made [sic] to invite the fisher family. a vote was taken which was satisfactory to that effect. Christian Ringenburger was elected as a director and representative of that family.
Mrs John Ernest Secretary
= = end of ledger transcription = =
Missing in the list of those attending was Henry Phend and family. Henry was there as he gave a response to Father Phend's welcoming address. Most likely Henry's wife, Susie, and their children Victor, Cecil and Gladys were also in attendance.
The Ledger contains entries from the next reunion, which was in 1909. The last entry has the notation "no reunion" and is dated 1943.
Updated September 8, .. - added 3rd page for 1897.
Wednesday, June 1, 2011
Vertical front point crampons?
Until recently I have been a big fan of the Black Diamond horizontal crampons for most conditions. Sabertooth to be exact. But I have also used the Serac. They both climb exceptionally well. Positive blogs on both can be found here on Cold Thistle. Big fan until they started breaking.BD has yet toacknowledge they have aproblem. To the opposite in fact, they have publically denied any problems. Despite continuing to quietly replace production crampons as they crack orbreak and are returned to BD.
Since the breakageissue was made public on a Canadian blog in Feb of when horizonatals seemed required, Ihavebeen climbing in a heavier, but still outstanding,GrivelG12s. Chromoly is proven technology Itrust. Easier for me to simply change brands than to be required to physically check and then have to still worry about my crampon'sreliability everytime out. I do check my gear...and like the Sabertooth a lot. This oneseems an overly obvious failure just too easy to avoid.
With an exceptionally cold winter inWestern NA and a mid winter trip to the Alps I ended up using vertical front point crampons more this winter than I normally would. Given a choice I really don't like climbing a lot of hard, cold ice. This winter I had little choice. So I climbed in the BD Cyborg, the new Grivel G22 and my old stand by, the Dartwin.
None of the previous mentionedvertical front point 'pons are what I would consider "amazing". Something about each I don't like and somethings about each I do like.
My first complaintis none of them fit well on my boots, the Spantik or Ultra very well. Surprizing the G22 is theworst of the bunch. BD Cyborgsecond "best". Both need new front bails for my boots and my standards.. Easily done. I use Petzl bails on both the other brand crampons. How long is it going to take these guysto figure the bail thing out?The Dartwin has a good front bail obviously.But the back heel lever could be better on the Petzl. The leverage is all wrong on the keeper strap. And the bottom of the heel pieceshape (Grivel and Petzl) will collapse the Spantik sole if tighened very much. So the Petzl heel leverI replace with a BD heel lever, which offers more surface area and a tight crampon. Problemssolved on the Dartwinfor the most part.
Of the three the Grivel has the best front points imo. The Cyborgs 2nd there as well. In comparison theDartwin is the worst performance of the three. But not by much. Only the Cyborg is replaceable and hard to tell the difference in performance of the G22, Dartwinand the Cyborg. But you can if the conditions are bad enough and the ice hard enough. A few bucks to replace the fronts on a Cyborg. The Dartwin and G22 you buy a new front crampon. Expensivethat and unnecessary by today's engineering standards. The Dartwin wears better than the G22 simply because of front point surface volume.
The Cyborg will climb easy ground better than the G22 or the Dartwin.Try walking on smooth 30 degree water ice as an example. The term ice skates will get a whole new definition there. But what you pay for that kind of performancein additionalweight. Too much extra weight imo. Cyborg is a dated design. But then all three are really if you look at what is possible in crampons today. Dartwin is a little better on easy groundthan the G22 imo. All three crampons couldgo back to the drawing board and easily eliminate their down sides with little effort.
Big advantage to the Grivel G22 though on the out of box fit for the TLT5 Dyanafit ski mountaineering boots. Almost like the G22was purposely designedto fitthis boot :) Not perfect but it is a good out of the box fit. You'll likely see a lot of that combo on technical ground next winter. I'll certainly be using them.
weight listed per pair:
Petzl Dartwin 1/2 bot 30.5oz / 865g
Grivel G 22 w/full bot 900g
Black Diamond Stainless Cyborg full bot 39.4oz / 1116g
Dartwin has eight downpoints working for you on moderate ground. The Grivel 22 just six! The Cyborg ten. No wonder the Cyborgis more secureon moderate ground! Not everyone's choice but when allsaid, the fit and performance is good enough on the Dartwin. Whichmakes the Dartwinmy choice in vertical front point crampons. Although it is an expensive one if you are climbing a lot of mixed when compared to the M10, G14or the Cyborg.
Strip a set of Cyborgs down and you have this:
Black Diamond Stainless Cyborg, mono, no bot, 28.6oz / 811g
No stainless Cyborg bodies broken yet that I have heard about. And Cyborgs get used a lot around the world. Something to be said for a dual point that can be converted to a mono and easily replacable,CHEAP to replace, front points. I won't be getting rid of my Cyborgs anytime soon.
BB and Grivel versions come with botts. The Petzl version you have to buy theheel piece. Still nothing up front on the Dartwin.
left to right: Cyborg, Dartwin and G22
There is much more to a crampon than the front points. I start with relaibilityandhow the cramponsfit my boots and move on from there.For me oncetrust in the design is established, fitis the most important issue for picking the rightcrampon.
For those that wonder why I worry so much about crampons fit?
UIAGM Guide Dylan Taylor has a great blog post about climbingthe Ginat that isworth reading.
http://www.tayloralpine.com/tayloralpine-blog//4/10/les-droites-north-face-la-ginat-route.html
"We crossed the Argentiere and simu-climbed most of the route in about four pitches. I found another screw and one broken black diamond crampon stuck in the snow midway up the first pitch. Hmmm..."
I asked Dylan what kind of crampon he found and itscondition fromtheGinat, "I am pretty sure the crampon I saw at the base of the route was a newer BD cyborg or something Ike that. It was definetly the shiny new stainless steel design, and I think it had modular vertical front points, and orange antibot plates. Did you drop a crampon? Hope not! The heel bale was missing completely...Cheers, Dylan"
I've found single crampons in the middle of the Eiger and on other big north faces in NA and Europe. Dropped a crampon myself mid pitch. You have to wonder what the stories are behind any lost crampon, but can't imagine any of them being pretty.