Don't part with your illusions. When they are gone you may still exist, but you have ceased to live ------ Mark Twain
Thursday, February 28, 2013
Pets at Work
Every time I visit Circle A Cycles, I sift through my pictures of the shop afterward only to discover that they are mostly cat portraits. But who can blame me, when they have such a fabulous shop cat. BT's job is mainly reception, customer serviceand PR. When it comes to being petted, she is an equal-opportunity practitioner - diligently making her way from one visitor to another, ensuring that everyone gets their fair share of stroking her silky fur and scratching her velvety ears. When this task is done, she slinks around delicately amidst the machinery, inspecting the quality of her colleagues' work.
I've tried to invite my own cats into my workspace. There was that one time I attempted to have them in the same room while I painted. Minutes later, they'd already managed to dip their little paws into some paint, and were now proceeding to spread it around the entire room while swatting brushes off of shelves and batting at jars of turpentine playfully. Oh how I paid for their visit with hours of cleanup. Oh how they squirmed and squealed as I quarantined them in the bathtub and scrubbed their paws with soap.
On another occasion, I tried to scan negatives around my whiskered friends. Their curiosity in this task made the scanning process unnecessary, since the strip of negatives was quickly rendered unusable.
Working on bikes in the same room is excitingly risky. They are intensely interested and make a show out of being very good, so that I allow them to be there. And they are good, up to a point. Until a particularly attractive part catches their eye and they challenge each other to a soccer match. The speed and elegance with which they can cause damage are admittedly impressive.
I can work from home on my laptop, but just barely. The cats like to stealthily make their way onto the table and slowly wrap themselves around the keyboard, until both my wrists are resting on some part of cat and my typing is constricted. "At least help me type if you're going to do that," I try to reason with them. They ignore me, purring triumphantly. Later a friend explained that this really is their way of helping me write: The purring functions as a metronome of sorts that helps me keep rhythm and type faster.Shop cats they are not, but perhaps I underestimate their value as office cats.
Wednesday, February 27, 2013
Beauty Lies in the Eyes of the Beholder
Tuesday, April 12th - - Wildflowers or Weeds? My mama once told me that a weed was anything growing where you didn't want it to be! By her definition then, a flower could be a weed... and a weed could be a flower. We've got thistles in Indiana but I don't think I've ever seen any quite like this! Alongside US highway 70 in Southeastern Oklahoma.
And, for TK, a sight to soothe the soul... In her comment on that post, TK says “I just want to crawl into that picture and inhale it?” Well, that's just how I felt on Sunday! And I must say, Green is gorgeous! Have you ever noticed just how many shades of green there are?
Leaving
It was at this time that my guide decided we had to leave so we could head back down the mountain, and go south toward Oregon. I didn't want to leave this heaven.
Great weather!
With July moving right along, the mountain is seeing some of the best weather of the season right now and fantastic climbing conditions. Climbers are getting out and making the best of it. There's plenty of fun climbing to still be had all over the mountain.
Lately, a lot of climbers have been having success on the Emmons-Winthrop route (see photo). It's in great form right now and a nice option to consider when planning your trip. Come out and see us on the mountain!
Lately, a lot of climbers have been having success on the Emmons-Winthrop route (see photo). It's in great form right now and a nice option to consider when planning your trip. Come out and see us on the mountain!
Sunday, February 24, 2013
Saturday, February 23, 2013
Sadness
On an incredibly somber note, the Seattle climbing community and Mount Rainier climbing program were rocked this week with the loss of a very close friend. While warming up for larger climbs in the Alaska Range, our friend fell to her death descending Mount Wake. At this time, we're withholding many of details until her husband can be notified. The press has picked up on the accident, as have many of the chat rooms (ST, CC); all are honoring the request for privacy until proper notification can be made. I'll post more information about the incident and this incredible person when the time is right. Here is picture of Mt. Wake provided by Mark Westman.
Ultraviolet 25 Coolum Cave Queensland Australia
Big long moves to good holds and exposure to burn. Nothing too technical, just keep hanging on untill the top.
Photo: Phil Box
Photo: Phil Box
Friday, February 22, 2013
Mountain Snowpack Begins to Build Again
The recent storms have brought almost 40" of fresh snow to the mountain and more is expected in the near future. While this bodes well for the upcoming climbing season, the inclement weather does nothing to help with the road reconstruction effort underway. Still, the forecasted reopen dates remain in effect: April 1st for the opening to Longmire and May 1st for the opening of the road to Paradise. Unfortunately, with road reconstruction in full swing, there really isn't public access to Paradise... Even if you have the energy and determination to ski or hike the road. More on Access
Over the weekend rangers climbed to Camp Muir to inspect conditions and dig out facilities. I've included several photos here from this trip to whet your appetite.
While things are quiet here at the Park, this might be a good time to get a jump on things and purchase your 2007 climbing pass and cut down on the time you will spend during registration. Complete the Climbing Pass Purchase Form and fax it to 360.569.3131.
Over the weekend rangers climbed to Camp Muir to inspect conditions and dig out facilities. I've included several photos here from this trip to whet your appetite.
While things are quiet here at the Park, this might be a good time to get a jump on things and purchase your 2007 climbing pass and cut down on the time you will spend during registration. Complete the Climbing Pass Purchase Form and fax it to 360.569.3131.
Thursday, February 21, 2013
Peace River Today
I'm happy to report that the river is back where it should be for the most part. The park still has a lingering odor from the flooding but it seems to be drying out as far as I can tell. The area past the cones is what I had taken pictures of before.
Long Top Tubes and Drop Bars
I was reading the Rivendell blog today, where Grant Petersen revealed a "mystery bike" that has been in the works for some time. It looks like this. And aside from the obvious oddities, it is endowed with an unusually long top tube for its size: a 62.5cm top tube on a 54.3cm frame. Apropos this geometry, Rivendell notes that the bicycle is"basically a flat-to-rolling land bike that, by virtue of it’s superlong top tube ...locks you into a sweeepyback bar." In other words, it would be difficult to set this bike up with drop bars due to the excessively long reach that would create.
This got me thinking again about my ownRivendellbicycle: a Sam Hillborne that is a 52cm frame with a 57.5cm top tube. That is also an unusually long top tube, given the frame size. Aside from the standover, the 52cm frame fits like a much larger one - possibly too large for someone of my stature to set up as a roadbike.
When I first got the bike, I could not ride with drop bars and so we did everything possible to ease me into it. The bike was built up with an extremely short stem (5cm) and the bars were set up considerably above saddle level. I rode it that way at first, gradually lowering the bars until finally they were level with the saddle. That felt fine for a while, and then came a time when I was ready for a longer stem (the 5cm was always meant to be temporary). The typical stem length for a roadbike is 9-11cm, but I soon understood that this range was out of the question given the long top tube - I would have to be lying down over the bike in order to reach the bars. So we replaced the 5cm stem with what we thought was an 8cm, but was actually a 7cm - and even that feels like a stretch. Now I find myself in bike fit purgatory: From the standpoint of how the bicycle handles, I feel as if I am not forward enough and would like a longer stem. But from the standpoint of reach, even the current stem is too long (and I have already shoved the saddle forward and replaced the seatpost with one that has as little setback as possible).
According toRivendell's sizing guidelines I belong on a 52cm frame, if not larger. However, it seems to me now that these guidelines are optimised for setting the bicycle up with upright handlebars (even though they do not explicitly say that). Otherwise I do not know how to interpret the sizing.
Long top tubes are good for eliminating toe overlap. They are also ideal for fitting a bike with swept back handlebars, so that the bars don't hit your knees. But if you plan to set up a bicycle with drop bars at or below saddle level and use a standard length stem, a long top tube could be problematic - unless you have a long torso. If you own a Rivendelland have it set up as a roadbike, I would be interested in your take on this.
This got me thinking again about my ownRivendellbicycle: a Sam Hillborne that is a 52cm frame with a 57.5cm top tube. That is also an unusually long top tube, given the frame size. Aside from the standover, the 52cm frame fits like a much larger one - possibly too large for someone of my stature to set up as a roadbike.
When I first got the bike, I could not ride with drop bars and so we did everything possible to ease me into it. The bike was built up with an extremely short stem (5cm) and the bars were set up considerably above saddle level. I rode it that way at first, gradually lowering the bars until finally they were level with the saddle. That felt fine for a while, and then came a time when I was ready for a longer stem (the 5cm was always meant to be temporary). The typical stem length for a roadbike is 9-11cm, but I soon understood that this range was out of the question given the long top tube - I would have to be lying down over the bike in order to reach the bars. So we replaced the 5cm stem with what we thought was an 8cm, but was actually a 7cm - and even that feels like a stretch. Now I find myself in bike fit purgatory: From the standpoint of how the bicycle handles, I feel as if I am not forward enough and would like a longer stem. But from the standpoint of reach, even the current stem is too long (and I have already shoved the saddle forward and replaced the seatpost with one that has as little setback as possible).
According toRivendell's sizing guidelines I belong on a 52cm frame, if not larger. However, it seems to me now that these guidelines are optimised for setting the bicycle up with upright handlebars (even though they do not explicitly say that). Otherwise I do not know how to interpret the sizing.
Long top tubes are good for eliminating toe overlap. They are also ideal for fitting a bike with swept back handlebars, so that the bars don't hit your knees. But if you plan to set up a bicycle with drop bars at or below saddle level and use a standard length stem, a long top tube could be problematic - unless you have a long torso. If you own a Rivendelland have it set up as a roadbike, I would be interested in your take on this.
Sunday, February 17, 2013
Qld Comp Cont'
The team here at jjobrienclimbingare currently out of the country on a non-climbing holiday.Here's a post I phoned in from Bali. Someselected scenes from the Qld Lead Comp
Meanwhile climbers,if you need more style updates,I've been guest blogging over at redphoenixstyle.blogspot.com
An honor and an awesome responsibility, they havecatwalks of followers and a good post will push the google servers into the red.
Qld Lead Comp Who else found themselves getting all inexplicably nervous?A few quick asanas tosooth the jitters.
That would be me in the qualifiers.
There's room on the route for a Rastaman. Liam keeps the vibrations good. Haile man!
Climbing was not compulsory on the night. Elise came along to keep the vibe up.The dynamic Team Cujes in "Boulders and Nuts" gear from upskillclimbinggear.comLee and Sam Cujes have recently launched their slick newonline store with some fresh ideas about hardware and clothing. I still can't believe how cheap those Climbtech ascenders are!And the girls tell me the Boulders and Nuts halters are excellent quality.
Lee in the open finals. Something about you have to clip the draw from the black"X" and no higher.
Where I come from you clip if you can, you go if you can't. Rules! What are they good for...
Post comp noodle box - Eddie, Kaylee, Joe, and I forgot...Kaylee sports a kooky coolowl bag she bought at the South Bank market.
Loesje Fletcher,looking supercool under pressure,uses unfair advantage with Red Chili Caronas.
Guaranteed to win any comp, if the judges know anything about style.
Nate, my preciousblogstar, you know you are just here to push up my blog stats. Even the super styled
Elie Moubarakcouldn't bump you off the popular post top spot.
Meanwhile climbers,if you need more style updates,I've been guest blogging over at redphoenixstyle.blogspot.com
An honor and an awesome responsibility, they havecatwalks of followers and a good post will push the google servers into the red.
Qld Lead Comp Who else found themselves getting all inexplicably nervous?A few quick asanas tosooth the jitters.
That would be me in the qualifiers.
There's room on the route for a Rastaman. Liam keeps the vibrations good. Haile man!
Climbing was not compulsory on the night. Elise came along to keep the vibe up.The dynamic Team Cujes in "Boulders and Nuts" gear from upskillclimbinggear.comLee and Sam Cujes have recently launched their slick newonline store with some fresh ideas about hardware and clothing. I still can't believe how cheap those Climbtech ascenders are!And the girls tell me the Boulders and Nuts halters are excellent quality.
Lee in the open finals. Something about you have to clip the draw from the black"X" and no higher.
Where I come from you clip if you can, you go if you can't. Rules! What are they good for...
Post comp noodle box - Eddie, Kaylee, Joe, and I forgot...Kaylee sports a kooky coolowl bag she bought at the South Bank market.
Loesje Fletcher,looking supercool under pressure,uses unfair advantage with Red Chili Caronas.
Guaranteed to win any comp, if the judges know anything about style.
Nate, my preciousblogstar, you know you are just here to push up my blog stats. Even the super styled
Elie Moubarakcouldn't bump you off the popular post top spot.
How to better your ice climbing?
Photos courtesy of the V. and N.
One of the cool things about having a blog is being able to see where the traffic comes from and what most who read the blog are interested in.
I remember teaching with the now legendary Canadian Guide James Blench, years ago, whenhe ratherpointedly asked me why I didn't "get to it". That while I stood around wide eyed watching him and John Lauchlan whip a bunch of beginning ice climbers through their paces in class. I kept my mouth shut and learned a lot about ice climbingfrom those two guys.
Note worthy side-bar here, giving credit where it is due
"If youwant to goclimbing, anywhere in the world,and really learn the skills more aboutJames in the link below. James is one of the guys who invented free climbing really steep water ice and is still at it. No betteror more experiencedmountain guide working today."
http://www.jamesblench.ca/mountaineering_about.html.
ok,back to thestory ;)
I was afraid to open my mouth. Better be seen as knowing something than speaking up and letting the word (or lack of them) out. So take this FWIW ;)
Rock climbing and ice climbing have a few things in common. I am not so sure that there is as much in common as some profess these days though.
First suggestion is get a pair of comfortable, warm and rigid soled boots.
Second is get a set of the newest, 2 grip, radically curved, leashless tools. Cobra, Viper, Quark, Nomic.
Third is get a set of "typical" 12 point crampons. Sabertooth or G12 style crampon of your choice will do fine.
Yes, I have hear the arguments on mono point crampons and vertical front point crampons. I use them both at times. But I believe the single most important piece of gear for ice climbing is a the combo of rigid soled boot and a equally "rigid" (as in not moving) set of perfectly fit crampons.The front point direction has little to do with the ability to climb well withcrampons on steep ice.
Way more important things to learn about ice climbing than dropping a knee or setting your mono point in your last tool placement. (does any one actually do that?)
This from Will Gadd which I think is spot on:
"Good rock climbers can learn to climb ice a lot faster than good ice climbers can learn to climb rock. I attribute this to the fact that rock climbers already have the fitness, and just require motion training, while most ice climbers are relatively weak. But, while a rock climber can learn to get up about any ice climb in a season or two, just getting up a climb does not mean doing it well. I have seen reasonably competent rock climbers move with glacial speed on what for a good ice climber is 5.5 terrain. I think the real artistry and style of ice climbing is not in just getting up a pitch, but doing so quickly and securely. It's like running--anyone can run a mile, but it's another thing to do it in under five minutes... I would rather see someone climbing well below their max but in total control than someone pushing it on ice, not worth it."
more here:
http://gravsports.blogspot.com//01/new-years-tips-for-ice-ability-gains.html
Most ice climbing is actually a battle to conserve energy. You want to stand and stay on your feet, not hang on your arms. If you use some thought most ice can generally be climbing on your feet. Even very difficult WI6 stuff can be climbed much on your feet.
When you do have to hang off your arms do it quickly, hang on bones not muscleand then get back on your feet asap . Just as you would crack climbing.
Don't kick the ice to death or to build a food hold. Set your crampons on features, weight them and let the crampons..well fit of course..do the work. Better yet look for "steps" on the ice where you can just set your cramponed foot and stand up. Look for the foot holds or "steps" just as you would on a rock climb. Think about and look at what you are climbing.
You should be doing one kick and stand or one placement and stand. Any more and you are wasting energy. Think positive and learn to trust your feet, the first time. PRACTICE.
Tools?...climb leashless. It is easier. Don't over grip. Climb with thin gloves...learn what you need for gloves to stay warm with. Don't over grip. Thin gloves let you to use a lesser grip. Learn to match and climb on one tool at a time. You'll save an enormous amount of energy by doing so. Matchingon your tools and leashless are THE two of the major innovations in ice climbing over the last 3 decades. Follow through on your swing. You are using high clearance, radically curved tools, right? Learn to hook. Hooking saves energy and is much, much faster. You can hook natural features and previous tool or crampon placements. There is no cheating when it comes to ice. My goal is to hook every placement, on every climb.
Never accept a bad placement. Never place a tool at the same height. Skip the Gen X program entirely. Make a real effort to go fast by using fewer tool placements...and keep your heels down.
Feet are easy. Take just oneswing per step...walk your feet as high as possible. Work the tool placements by matching and take advantage of those long reaching placements by walking your feet as high as possible every time. Practice.
Learn to follow in half the time it takes to lead. Yes, follow in half the time or LESS than it takes to lead. Practice andmake it your game.
Don't dick around on climbs...even practice climbs. Think about what you are doing, stay organized and alert. And climb quickly.
Keep you heels down...as in lower than your front points. Not as important as it use to be....because you are less likely to shear your front points in softer ankled boots. But keeping your heels downwill make your calves feel a lot better :)
Helmet head? Use the helmet to deflect dinner places or that bad tool placement you are forced to pull up on once in a while. Turn your head to put your helmet between your face and your tool. Less painful that way when your tool eventually pops. And they will.
Learn to use flat footing or French technique. It is the one technique that will get you through all ice climbing, at any level. Learn to use the entire 12 points of your crampons not just the front two. Using the entire cramponis way more important that having a mono point or vertical front points. Try to remember the great ice faces in the Alps, including the Eiger, were first done with 10 point crampons. Just think what they could have done with the gear we have now. And imagine what you can becomecapable of with it!
Read the ice. Know what solid, junk, new, soft or oldice is. Know where you have to swing and where it is more likely you can just hook good placements.Recognise the colors and textures and what is good or bad for YOUR INTENDED PURPOSE. Do you want to hook it quickly or get a bomber screw? They aren't the same ice. Get off the vertical any time you get a chance. Even on vertical ice there are small corners and grooves. Work them both and stem where it is possible. Even a small stem can turn the suffer-fest90 degree pillarinto a 85 degree romp.
Remember when ice climbing really sucks...and it will at some point....it is just ice climbing, and you chose to be there. Even the hard parts won't last for ever and with even a small amount of thought and precaution you are unlikely to die :) Relax your grip...your hands will stay warmer.
These aren't all the bit and pieces that will make you a better ice climber. But it is a good start I think. "Reading the ice" is equally import in making ice climbing easier. But that takes time on the ice as well as some thought. More on that nexttime.
James would likely still say, "when are you going to get with it". But thisis all I got for the moment.
Remember it really is easy and the basics will generally get you by if you think about it. Stay just warm enough, climb hard and push your own limits even if that means you do it on a top rope!
One of the cool things about having a blog is being able to see where the traffic comes from and what most who read the blog are interested in.
I remember teaching with the now legendary Canadian Guide James Blench, years ago, whenhe ratherpointedly asked me why I didn't "get to it". That while I stood around wide eyed watching him and John Lauchlan whip a bunch of beginning ice climbers through their paces in class. I kept my mouth shut and learned a lot about ice climbingfrom those two guys.
Note worthy side-bar here, giving credit where it is due
"If youwant to goclimbing, anywhere in the world,and really learn the skills more aboutJames in the link below. James is one of the guys who invented free climbing really steep water ice and is still at it. No betteror more experiencedmountain guide working today."
http://www.jamesblench.ca/mountaineering_about.html.
ok,back to thestory ;)
I was afraid to open my mouth. Better be seen as knowing something than speaking up and letting the word (or lack of them) out. So take this FWIW ;)
Rock climbing and ice climbing have a few things in common. I am not so sure that there is as much in common as some profess these days though.
First suggestion is get a pair of comfortable, warm and rigid soled boots.
Second is get a set of the newest, 2 grip, radically curved, leashless tools. Cobra, Viper, Quark, Nomic.
Third is get a set of "typical" 12 point crampons. Sabertooth or G12 style crampon of your choice will do fine.
Yes, I have hear the arguments on mono point crampons and vertical front point crampons. I use them both at times. But I believe the single most important piece of gear for ice climbing is a the combo of rigid soled boot and a equally "rigid" (as in not moving) set of perfectly fit crampons.The front point direction has little to do with the ability to climb well withcrampons on steep ice.
Way more important things to learn about ice climbing than dropping a knee or setting your mono point in your last tool placement. (does any one actually do that?)
This from Will Gadd which I think is spot on:
"Good rock climbers can learn to climb ice a lot faster than good ice climbers can learn to climb rock. I attribute this to the fact that rock climbers already have the fitness, and just require motion training, while most ice climbers are relatively weak. But, while a rock climber can learn to get up about any ice climb in a season or two, just getting up a climb does not mean doing it well. I have seen reasonably competent rock climbers move with glacial speed on what for a good ice climber is 5.5 terrain. I think the real artistry and style of ice climbing is not in just getting up a pitch, but doing so quickly and securely. It's like running--anyone can run a mile, but it's another thing to do it in under five minutes... I would rather see someone climbing well below their max but in total control than someone pushing it on ice, not worth it."
more here:
http://gravsports.blogspot.com//01/new-years-tips-for-ice-ability-gains.html
Most ice climbing is actually a battle to conserve energy. You want to stand and stay on your feet, not hang on your arms. If you use some thought most ice can generally be climbing on your feet. Even very difficult WI6 stuff can be climbed much on your feet.
When you do have to hang off your arms do it quickly, hang on bones not muscleand then get back on your feet asap . Just as you would crack climbing.
Don't kick the ice to death or to build a food hold. Set your crampons on features, weight them and let the crampons..well fit of course..do the work. Better yet look for "steps" on the ice where you can just set your cramponed foot and stand up. Look for the foot holds or "steps" just as you would on a rock climb. Think about and look at what you are climbing.
You should be doing one kick and stand or one placement and stand. Any more and you are wasting energy. Think positive and learn to trust your feet, the first time. PRACTICE.
Tools?...climb leashless. It is easier. Don't over grip. Climb with thin gloves...learn what you need for gloves to stay warm with. Don't over grip. Thin gloves let you to use a lesser grip. Learn to match and climb on one tool at a time. You'll save an enormous amount of energy by doing so. Matchingon your tools and leashless are THE two of the major innovations in ice climbing over the last 3 decades. Follow through on your swing. You are using high clearance, radically curved tools, right? Learn to hook. Hooking saves energy and is much, much faster. You can hook natural features and previous tool or crampon placements. There is no cheating when it comes to ice. My goal is to hook every placement, on every climb.
Never accept a bad placement. Never place a tool at the same height. Skip the Gen X program entirely. Make a real effort to go fast by using fewer tool placements...and keep your heels down.
Feet are easy. Take just oneswing per step...walk your feet as high as possible. Work the tool placements by matching and take advantage of those long reaching placements by walking your feet as high as possible every time. Practice.
Learn to follow in half the time it takes to lead. Yes, follow in half the time or LESS than it takes to lead. Practice andmake it your game.
Don't dick around on climbs...even practice climbs. Think about what you are doing, stay organized and alert. And climb quickly.
Keep you heels down...as in lower than your front points. Not as important as it use to be....because you are less likely to shear your front points in softer ankled boots. But keeping your heels downwill make your calves feel a lot better :)
Helmet head? Use the helmet to deflect dinner places or that bad tool placement you are forced to pull up on once in a while. Turn your head to put your helmet between your face and your tool. Less painful that way when your tool eventually pops. And they will.
Learn to use flat footing or French technique. It is the one technique that will get you through all ice climbing, at any level. Learn to use the entire 12 points of your crampons not just the front two. Using the entire cramponis way more important that having a mono point or vertical front points. Try to remember the great ice faces in the Alps, including the Eiger, were first done with 10 point crampons. Just think what they could have done with the gear we have now. And imagine what you can becomecapable of with it!
Read the ice. Know what solid, junk, new, soft or oldice is. Know where you have to swing and where it is more likely you can just hook good placements.Recognise the colors and textures and what is good or bad for YOUR INTENDED PURPOSE. Do you want to hook it quickly or get a bomber screw? They aren't the same ice. Get off the vertical any time you get a chance. Even on vertical ice there are small corners and grooves. Work them both and stem where it is possible. Even a small stem can turn the suffer-fest90 degree pillarinto a 85 degree romp.
Remember when ice climbing really sucks...and it will at some point....it is just ice climbing, and you chose to be there. Even the hard parts won't last for ever and with even a small amount of thought and precaution you are unlikely to die :) Relax your grip...your hands will stay warmer.
These aren't all the bit and pieces that will make you a better ice climber. But it is a good start I think. "Reading the ice" is equally import in making ice climbing easier. But that takes time on the ice as well as some thought. More on that nexttime.
James would likely still say, "when are you going to get with it". But thisis all I got for the moment.
Remember it really is easy and the basics will generally get you by if you think about it. Stay just warm enough
Friday, February 15, 2013
Trip to Las Cruces, NM
I could say that this is the way I rode to Las Cruces, NM last week but actually it was just my truck that went that way. I rode in the cab of the black truck with my son. He had come to Albuquerque to pick up the long trailer and since I wanted to go back with him for a few days we loaded by pickup on the trailer rather than using gas in both vehichels. I was then able to drive back in my little red truck when I was ready to.
Phend-Fisher Family Reunion Ledger - 1915
June 26, 1915
The Phend and Fisher family reunion met at the Weiss grove. A splendid dinner was enjoyed by all.
Officers for the ensuing year as follows.
William Phend. Pres.
Jacob Phend Tres.
Ivy Wehrly Sec'y
Births since June 27, 1914 as follows.
Emerson Rhodes Aug. 19
Warren Edwin Pletcher Jan. 30
Mary Alice Phend May 3
Ward Miller May 11
Blanche Evelyn May 4
Mary Elizebeth Manuel
Married
Moses Phend.
- - - - - - - - -
Fred Earnest
- - - - - - - - -
Archie Seniff
Bertha Kline
The Phend-Fisher families gathered for a reunion in Elkhart County, Indiana almost annually from 1909 until 1943. Usually held at Nappanee, the events of the day were recorded in an old ledger book. Spelling has been retained as it was in the original though some punctuation and paragraph breaks have been added. To view all articles in this series click on the "Phend-Fisher Reunion Ledger" label at the bottom of this post.
The Phend and Fisher family reunion met at the Weiss grove. A splendid dinner was enjoyed by all.
Officers for the ensuing year as follows.
William Phend. Pres.
Jacob Phend Tres.
Ivy Wehrly Sec'y
Births since June 27, 1914 as follows.
Emerson Rhodes Aug. 19
Warren Edwin Pletcher Jan. 30
Mary Alice Phend May 3
Ward Miller May 11
Blanche Evelyn May 4
Mary Elizebeth Manuel
Married
Moses Phend.
- - - - - - - - -
Fred Earnest
- - - - - - - - -
Archie Seniff
Bertha Kline
The Phend-Fisher families gathered for a reunion in Elkhart County, Indiana almost annually from 1909 until 1943. Usually held at Nappanee, the events of the day were recorded in an old ledger book. Spelling has been retained as it was in the original though some punctuation and paragraph breaks have been added. To view all articles in this series click on the "Phend-Fisher Reunion Ledger" label at the bottom of this post.
Thursday, February 14, 2013
Wordless Wednesday :: Up, Up, and Away!
The Great Forest Park Balloon Race
St. Louis, Missouri September 1994Copyright © 1994/.. by Rebeckah R. Wiseman
St. Louis, Missouri September 1994Copyright © 1994/.. by Rebeckah R. Wiseman
Monday, February 11, 2013
Back!
I'm back in the US. Still unpacking and washing clothes. Trying to decide what to write about first. Took 200# of new and some old gear to use and test in Chamonix.Over baggage charges cost more than the freaking R/T plane ticket Sking and climbing was awesome in Feb. and March.
More to come asap.
Till then, sunshine, granite and neve.
More to come asap.
Till then, sunshine, granite and neve.
50 Miles Without Coasting
I have ridden Marianne for about 50 miles now as a fixed gear, so I figure that I can offer my impressions without feeling that I am speaking too soon. I have taken her both on city rides in traffic and on trails (the Charles River Trail and the Minuteman Bikeway), both with the Co-Habitant and alone. And I think the fixed gear conversion was the best thing that could have happened to this bicycle.
Popular culture has created the unfortunate association between fixed gear and danger, brightly coloured track bikes, and "hipsters". But that is ridiculous. The only distinguishing feature of a fixed gear bike is that it does not coast. You can turn your loop-frame or your beach cruiser into a fixed gear if you like, set the gearing low, and enjoy pedaling leisurely around town on it. It will be just like a single speed, only you can't coast. That's all.
I know that most people enjoy coasting, but I have never been crazy about it. On my regular bicycles I try to always be in a gear that will allow me to pedal. Coasting - especially at high speeds - makes me feel as if the bicycle is a wild horse galloping out of control and dragging me along, with me barely managing to hold on to the reins. This is especially frightening on winding downhills - so I try to switch into a high enough gear that will allow me to pedal, and then I feel that I have better steering control. I have no idea whether this is based on real physical principles, or whether it is all in my head. But the result is that I welcome the "no coasting" aspect of fixed gear bicycles, rather than think of it as a drawback.
For the same reason, in many ways I find fixed gear bicycles easier to ride, not more difficult. What else is easier about them? Well, remaining stable at very slow speeds - which is a useful skill in the city. You can only coast for so long before your bicycle stops, but if you push on the pedals again, your speed will increase too much. On a fixed gear, you can pedal in slow motion, and the bicycle will remain perfectly stable while going at the exact speed you want, no matter how slow. This is especially useful when you are trying to go around pedestrians, or inch your way forward to the red light at busy intersections. If you have a poor sense of balance and coordination like I do, you may find fixed gear to be helpful in situations that would otherwise leave you flustered.
As I have mentioned earlier, Marianne was a particularly good choice for a fixed gear bike, because her over-responsiveness is now an asset. As before, she turns super-quickly and easily - but now, she does it only when I want her to and the responsiveness no longer feels like "twitchiness" or "squirreliness". It feels like I now have an extremely maneuverable bike, of which I am in full control - as opposed to a bike that was more maneuverable than I could handle.
The thing that took the most getting used to, was trusting the brakes enough to speed up. I kept having to remind myself, that this is not the track bike I rode in Austria; this bike has brakes and I can come to a complete stop any time, just like on a regular bike! After the first couple of rides though, this finally sunk in and I've stopped worrying about braking.
After a couple of days, we re-did the bars by wrapping the entire surface in cork tape, to allow multiple hand positions. We also removed the rear brake (it really was unnecessary) and placed the front brake lever on the right handlebar for easier access. The bell is now mounted on the stem.
My gearing on this bicycle is 42-tooth in the front and 19-tooth in the rear (with 170mm cranks and 27" wheels). That is a pretty non-aggressive gearing that is good for everyday cycling in hilly areas. I may get a smaller rear cog eventually (which will allow me to go faster, but will make things more difficult on hills), but I don't feel the need for that yet.
There has been some discussion about foot retention and whether I plan to get clips for the pedals. On a fixed gear bike, there is the danger of the feet slipping off the pedals, and the pedals then smacking you in the ankles. This can happen when going over bumps at high speeds, or when flying downhill. I do recognise the risk, but let me put it this way: Given that I have brakes and I don't go very fast on this bike, I think there is more chance of my falling as a result of using clips, than there is of my getting smacked with pedals. I may try Powergrips at some point, but I've seen them in a local bikeshop and even they look scary. I did not do well with half-clips. Are Powergrips easier?
I am sure the novelty of the new Marianne will eventually wear off, but for now I can't seem to stop riding her. After a seat post adjustment (more on this later), the bicycle now feels fairly comfortable on rides under 20 miles. Taking it on a very long ride last night was overkill though, and various parts of my body are now hurting. I think I will stick with the Sam Hillborne for those, and leave Marianne for the city.
Popular culture has created the unfortunate association between fixed gear and danger, brightly coloured track bikes, and "hipsters". But that is ridiculous. The only distinguishing feature of a fixed gear bike is that it does not coast. You can turn your loop-frame or your beach cruiser into a fixed gear if you like, set the gearing low, and enjoy pedaling leisurely around town on it. It will be just like a single speed, only you can't coast. That's all.
I know that most people enjoy coasting, but I have never been crazy about it. On my regular bicycles I try to always be in a gear that will allow me to pedal. Coasting - especially at high speeds - makes me feel as if the bicycle is a wild horse galloping out of control and dragging me along, with me barely managing to hold on to the reins. This is especially frightening on winding downhills - so I try to switch into a high enough gear that will allow me to pedal, and then I feel that I have better steering control. I have no idea whether this is based on real physical principles, or whether it is all in my head. But the result is that I welcome the "no coasting" aspect of fixed gear bicycles, rather than think of it as a drawback.
For the same reason, in many ways I find fixed gear bicycles easier to ride, not more difficult. What else is easier about them? Well, remaining stable at very slow speeds - which is a useful skill in the city. You can only coast for so long before your bicycle stops, but if you push on the pedals again, your speed will increase too much. On a fixed gear, you can pedal in slow motion, and the bicycle will remain perfectly stable while going at the exact speed you want, no matter how slow. This is especially useful when you are trying to go around pedestrians, or inch your way forward to the red light at busy intersections. If you have a poor sense of balance and coordination like I do, you may find fixed gear to be helpful in situations that would otherwise leave you flustered.
As I have mentioned earlier, Marianne was a particularly good choice for a fixed gear bike, because her over-responsiveness is now an asset. As before, she turns super-quickly and easily - but now, she does it only when I want her to and the responsiveness no longer feels like "twitchiness" or "squirreliness". It feels like I now have an extremely maneuverable bike, of which I am in full control - as opposed to a bike that was more maneuverable than I could handle.
The thing that took the most getting used to, was trusting the brakes enough to speed up. I kept having to remind myself, that this is not the track bike I rode in Austria; this bike has brakes and I can come to a complete stop any time, just like on a regular bike! After the first couple of rides though, this finally sunk in and I've stopped worrying about braking.
After a couple of days, we re-did the bars by wrapping the entire surface in cork tape, to allow multiple hand positions. We also removed the rear brake (it really was unnecessary) and placed the front brake lever on the right handlebar for easier access. The bell is now mounted on the stem.
My gearing on this bicycle is 42-tooth in the front and 19-tooth in the rear (with 170mm cranks and 27" wheels). That is a pretty non-aggressive gearing that is good for everyday cycling in hilly areas. I may get a smaller rear cog eventually (which will allow me to go faster, but will make things more difficult on hills), but I don't feel the need for that yet.
There has been some discussion about foot retention and whether I plan to get clips for the pedals. On a fixed gear bike, there is the danger of the feet slipping off the pedals, and the pedals then smacking you in the ankles. This can happen when going over bumps at high speeds, or when flying downhill. I do recognise the risk, but let me put it this way: Given that I have brakes and I don't go very fast on this bike, I think there is more chance of my falling as a result of using clips, than there is of my getting smacked with pedals. I may try Powergrips at some point, but I've seen them in a local bikeshop and even they look scary. I did not do well with half-clips. Are Powergrips easier?
I am sure the novelty of the new Marianne will eventually wear off, but for now I can't seem to stop riding her. After a seat post adjustment (more on this later), the bicycle now feels fairly comfortable on rides under 20 miles. Taking it on a very long ride last night was overkill though, and various parts of my body are now hurting. I think I will stick with the Sam Hillborne for those, and leave Marianne for the city.
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