Light weight kit?

This from a blog reader today,

"Sorry to go off topic, but from looking at your pack contents photo, there were a few pieces of kit that could be substituted to lower the weight/bulk.Swap the GSI cookset, Snowpeak stove and MSR canister for a Jetboil Sol Ti cook system plusa 100g gas canister. Swap your BD krabs for DMM i-beam versions, eg Spectre 2 or Alpha Trad? Finally you could swap the friends for the new 'Helium' version, the Reverso 3 for the 4, and maybe even the harness for an Arc'teryx M270. All

together I think you would be saving over a pound in weight. What are your

thoughts"

Thoughts?  Good idea :)  I thought it worth weighing the suggestion, Jon :) 

1. Jetboil stove 258g

   100g fuel can 196g (110g fuel)

   Snow Peak stove 128g

   GSI cook kit 162g

   MSR can 374g (227g fuel)

My kit is 32g heavier (fuel cell sizes change depending on the project) 

But bigger fuel cells are slightly more efficient for what you carry in fuel

My Snow Peak stove and cook kit are way smaller/less bulk over all than a Jetboil

2. DMM Spectra 2 biner 32g

   DMM Alpha Trad biner 34g

   BD OZ biner 28g

   Trango Super Fly 30g

with 25 biners my kit is 100g lighter or more

3. Helium Friend  [1] 3.35 oz [2] 3.84 oz [3] 5.11 oz 

   Rigid stem Friend [1] 3.1 oz; [2] 3.80 oz; [3] 5.00 oz (sewn Spectra slings)

Carry only five cams and I am at least 25g lighter 

4. Reverso 4 56g  (edit of correct weights on my scale)

   Reverso 3 78g

same here

5. Petzl Hirundos 315g in a large

   Arcteryx M270  310g in a large

5g heavier here

Total difference in weight between the suggested kit and mine?

I am 63g lighter if not more from Jon's suggestions.  Or 2.2 oz :)

I don't doubt the Jetboil is a better stove than the Snow Peak but I normally usea MSR Reactor if I want a "real" stove.  I like the Snow Peak because of the verysmall volume it takes up in my pack. A full pound savings was being very optimistic on Jon's part. But you never know so I took the time to weigh what I have hereand make a side by side comparison. I have both Helium and older rigid stem Friends and already knew what the result would be there. Take the time to weigh and know what you have in your own pack. Jon, thanks again for the suggestion!

How Many Guys.....

does it take

to look under the hood

for something?

At one point, all five of them were looking. They crack me up!

Nisqually Rock Avalanches - Frequency and Size

For those of you still watching these large rockslides from the Nisqually Cleaver, here's a little more information for you. I called Kate Allstadt of the Earth and Space Sciences Department at the University of Washington and asked her for some seismic data that may show a better picture of the frequency of rock avalanche events.


She was able to graph some data that shows the distribution of the major rock avalanche events over the period from June 24th to July 7th. You can see in the graph that there is a trend decreasing in frequency and size. So it appears that the danger could be abating - but only gradually.


I must say that this correlates with direct observation, as there have not been any major rock flows down the mountain in the last week or more. The lowest extent of the largest debris path is to an elevation of about 8200 feet. Here is a graph Kate produced that shows the data from the seismic sensors installed on Mt. Rainier. The horizontal axis represents the date. The vertical axis represents the number of events per hour. The top row identifies single and large events.

Durability of Unusual Finishes: Chrome Plating and Clear Powdercoat

This winter I've been riding some bikes with unusual finishes. My main ride is a clear powdercoated Brompton. There are also two chrome-plated bikes in my possession at the moment: a vintage Raleigh Tourist and a modern Bella Ciao. The idea of riding these bikes on salted winter roads has been met with some concern, and I've been asked to comment on how they are holding up.




To start with, I just want to say that chrome plating and clear powder coat are entirely different finishes, and I am by no means placing them in the same category. But the one thing they have in common is that they are unusual, which invites curiosity about their durability compared to paint.Unfortunately, I cannot address that question meaningfully. I didn't have the heart to experiment with the beautiful finishes, so I've been cleaning the bikes after every salty ride this winter. But in truth I am not sure how much this extra care is warranted.




When it comes to the chrome plated bikes, I am actually surprised by the concern for their durability. Chrome plating might be pretty, but its real purpose - as I understand it - is to make the frame more resistant to corrosion. Therefore, a chrome plated frame should require less, not more maintenance than a painted or powdercoated frame. Issues of cost aside, chrome plating should make for an excellent and entirely appropriate winter bike finish. For what it's worth, my chrome Raleigh Tourist is a 33-year-old bike that was well-ridden by its previous owner. The chromed frame shows less wear than a typical painted frame from that era, though a similar degree of component wear.




Clear powdercoat is a different story. Generally speaking, powdercoat is considered to be a more durable finish than liquid paint, which makes it a preferred choice for winter bikes. But clear powdercoat is tricky and may not be reliably rust-proof. Owners of clear-coated bikes have reported problems with corrosion. Rivendell used to offer clear-coated frames, but no longer does. Brompton at some point reformulated their raw lacquer finish to address corrosion issues. Today there are owners of clear-coated Bromptons who ride them in winter, and dealers seem to feel this is perfectly fine to do. I do not see any signs of rust on mine so far, although again - I've been cleaning it.I would notintentionally choose a clear powdercoat finish for a winter bike.




All things considered, I feel that (pigmented) powdercoat and liquid paint are more practical choices for a bike finish. Chrome plating is expensive and difficult to do properly. Clear powdercoat is reputed to be less durable.




Then again, there are bikes that do perfectly well with no finish at all. As an experiment, Henry Cutler of WorkCycles left his personal Fr8frame unpainted. For three years the bike was stored outdoors in Amsterdam's rainy saltwater climate. Over time the frame has developed a patina of surface rust, but it remains structurally fine. Go figure!

A Horse is a Horse...or Not

Nathan has decided if you can't beat them, join them, and now goes out with me on the weekends to Sixteen Hands. Today I grabbed my real camera and grabbed some shots and we discussed how different the horses are from each other. I didn't know how distinct the "horsenalities" of horses were until I spent time here. They are all unique and all bring their own flavor to the sanctuary. As someone who had a lot of kids, I love this about the sanctuary.



For example, Willow is a deep thinker. She watches what is going on and seems pretty mellow, but she is as strong willed as they come when pressed by something she does not like.



Dakota is Mr Personality, winning over the visitors with his stunning looks and friendliness. I call him Mr Hollywood because I have to fight to get a shot of anyone else when he is around. He is ALL about the camera and will circle around with me to be sure I am taking pictures of only him.



Cherokee is our wise and gentle soul. He is pure, unadulterated love. If I am feeling down for any reason, five seconds with Cherokee is my favorite cure.



Dallas is one half of what I call the Dynamic Duo. He is energy, fun and joy all rolled up into one. Just watching him race down the track makes me smile. He is not really afraid of people so he can be quite pushy at times. He is smart as a whip and curious about everything!



Nova is a classy lady. She is above most of the foolishness that the guys engage in, but can hold her own against them if she needs to. I always imagine after she kicks the guys with all her might, scaring the living daylights out of them, that she walks away disgusted that she had to break a sweat in order to do it.



Most of the horses here have unique "issues", being rescued from abusive or neglectful situations. So they have baggage, just as most of us humans do. They are also able to still show us who they are, when they get to the point where they feel safe and trust us. Again, like most humans. It's a really interesting thing to be a part of that process and I am grateful each day I spend time there and learn more about it.



Living the life in FL!

Henry Barber

I mentioned "HOT" Henry Barber last week. If Henry "climbed a little", I've never climbed at all.` Few personalities of the several generations I have been privileged to climb with have really impressed me. Henry was one of the few.



First time I met Henry was at OR several years ago. I had clearlyembarrassed Henrytelling him how much of a hero he had been to my own climbing back in the '70s. Two old gray hair guys standing in the middle of the ORshow floor and farther from climbing than ever before. But still climbing.



The rest of the world just in the way more these days.



But if didn't embarrass me admitting it. I felt like a teenager again recounting in my own head the things that Henry inspired in my own climbing. It was a very good time to be alive and so much to learn.





Rob Taylor in the Hemsedal Valley, Norway. 1977 Henry Barber photo. FA Vettisfossen 300m, WI5



Cool thing about Henry is he wasn't just a rock climber. He was an exceptional ice climber as well. By even today's standards. Much to Henry's climbing history. Tiny bit of it here.




More on Henry here:



http://enormocast.com/episode-39-henry-barber-enough-said/



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_Barber_(rock_climber)



Check out

http://enormocast.com

There are somegems there. Another find from OR.

The Skinny on Narrow Brooks Saddles?

I did not think this would happen to me in a million years, but the Brooks B17 saddle that is so blissfully comfortable on my touring bike- is now apparentlytoo widefor me on my fixed gear roadbike. I kept lowering the handlebars on that bike (isn't it funny how our ideas of "what feels comfortable" can change?), until they've become considerably lower than the saddle. As a result, parts of my inner/rear thighs have begun to press into the hard edges of the saddle uncomfortably as I pedal. This never used to happen when the handlebars were up higher, so "saddle too wide" seems like a reasonable diagnosis. Just when I thought that the B17 was my "perfect" default saddle for roadbikes, I guess I am proven wrong.

I am completely lost when it comes to choosing a narrow saddle, and the Brooks classification system is not helpful. Even examining them all side by side (atHarris Cyclery) was more confusing than informative. Left to right, these are: the Swift, the Pro, the Colt, and the Swallow. I imagine the box of kleenex on the left is for clean-up, lest customers drool on the saddles. Or cry about not being able to afford them.



More frustrating still, is the fact that, once you get into the narrower-than-B17 territory,nobody seems to agree about what's comfortable. Some say that they ride the Brooks Pro exclusively and love it. Others say that the Brooks Pro is "unrideable". Reviews of the Swift and the Swallow are equally mixed. From what I read, I am beginning to think that as a lighter cyclist (125lb) I may find it especially difficult to deal with these saddles, as they tend to be harder to break in.



One model I am considering is the new (re-released)Colt. The width is similar to the Pro, but the nose is pointed down, like onthese 80s racing saddles. I have tried a couple of the old vinyl and foam saddles in that style, and found their shape surprisingly comfortable(though not the material they are made of). I am not sure what the actual purpose of the downpointed nose is, but it sure is female-anatomy-friendly, which is why I am considering it. The Brooks Colt has been out for a few months, but I have not found any substantial reviews of it. The hard-as-a-rock surface does give me pause.



WhileBrooks saddles are fantastic when you find the right one, they are just too expensive for me to experiment with. I am open to other brands as well, though in my experience I don't do well with anything other than suspended leather. Maybe some of the imitation-Brooks that people consider "flimsy" might actually work for me, since they break in faster.Any suggestions - keeping my weight in mind - would be much appreciated.

Shoot! Score! Patagonia!

Patagonia Knifeblade pullover and the PatagoniaAlpine Guide pant.






The original Knifeblade pullover was made from Polartec® Power Shield PRO®. The Alpine Guide pants are made from Polartec® Power Shield®. Great pants for dh skiing.Love them! My current favorite down hill skiing pant. But not as water resistant/proof as the Power Shield PRO® fabric. The pull over Knifeblade top is one of my all time favorite climbing shells. Good warm weather ski shell as well.



If the video linked below is correct the newest Knifeblade jacket and pants are both unlined Polartec® Power Shield PRO®. Even better I think for skiing or nasty, wetweather climbing. Undecided yet on the climbing end. Not because of thePower Shield PRO® fabricmind you. It is amazing. The cuff design is what worries me. Although the insulated Northwall pants of Polartec® Power Shield PRO® have been good in really cold, wet weather for skiing. Too much faff in the cuff for me as a climbing pant. Too bad as the insulatedmaterial is perfect for cold weather climbing I think.



Certainly a good alternative to the few Neoshell options available. Very happy to see someone take advantage of the fabric is the right context and now in an insulated (if you can still find them as the NW pant/jacket has been discontinued) and uninsulated version.



The entire line of Patagonia alpine climbing clothing has take a huge step forward in materials and patterns the last two seasons. These two look to bump the bar higher yet. Bravo!



Not been a huge fan of Patagonia in the recent past. Had been a fan a few decades ago and they are back going gangbusters with their newest alpine clothing. It may not be the best in every category. But as a long time Arcteryx fan it took a lot to bring me back and get me into Patagonia clothing. And Patagonia hasindeed done very well across the board in the Alpine line from what I own and have used..






Patagonia Mixed Guide Hoody




Colin Haley's recent comments:




http://www.thecleanestline.com/colin-haley/




"My motivation is simple and selfish. Often the very best Patagonia alpine products are discontinued after only one year on the market because they don't sell well enough. This is why some pieces which are now a cherished staple, such as the RI Hoody, were once discontinued."




I have more Patagonia in my gear closet currently that is being used than any other brand by a fair margin. That says a lot to me.


The pieces I really like for anything from down hill skiing to backcountry skiing and ice/alpine climbing. Mix and match as required. It is quite a collection for the intended purposes. And I haven't used everything available just what is listed here.



Capilene 2

Micro D pullover

R1 hoody

Piton hoody

Nano Puff pullover

Knife blade pull over

Mixed Guide hoody

Mixed Guide pant

Alpine Guide Pant

Northwall Jacket

NorthWall Pant



(edit: I had incorrectly listed the pant I really like and use as a lot, as the BC Guide Pant. When in fact I have been skiing all winter in the Alpine Guide pant.... Sorry about the confusion and I have edited the original content to reflect the reality of the Alpine Guideinstead of what I had only imagined I was using ;) Thanks for the clarification and corrections Travis!)



The Patagonia Simple Guide garments have to be one of the best clothing deals on the market for what we all do.



The newest Knifeblade garments here:











and another new one I think will be a big hit, the Nano Puff Hybrid.

A New Acquaintance... and a New Career?

Today I would like to share with you that I have officially become a Bicycle Photographer. As you can imagine, this translates to a life of fame and glamour - and will finally enable me to quit my dayjob and live as a full-time artiste. Okay, perhaps I am getting just a little ahead of myself. But I have recently been asked to photograph someone's bicycle collection, and I am excited to be working on this project.

A.T. (aka "somervillain") is a vintage bicycle lover who lives in the Boston area. He is an occasional commentator on this blog and a member of bikeforums. Based on the photos of my own bicycles that he has seen me post, A.T. invited me to document his and his wife's vintage collection. So far we have only done one photo session, and I post a few of the images here.

The star of these photos is A.T.'s 1950s Raleigh DL-1 Roadster - the same bicycle as the Co-Habitant's Rodney, but older and with a full chaincase, as well as dynamo-powered lighting (front and rear!).

I must say that this DL-1 is in better condition than any other I have seen, particularly the chrome parts. When I first saw this bike from a distance, my thought was that it must be a modern replica. Of course up close all the signs of wear and age are visible, but its condition is none the less terrific.

Those who like vintage Raleigh 3-speeds know how rare it is to actually have that dynamo headlight attached to the "Heron" mount and working!

Here is a close-up of the headlight, handlebars and rod levers. The roses are distracting here (roses in November?), but it's the best close-up I have of this area.

Incredibly clean and shiny rod brakes.

Front dynamo hub.

Dynamo-powered tail light mounted on the left seat stay. What a pleasure to photograph all this stuff!

Rear Sturmey Archer hub. Notice how clean it is! A.T. did all of the work on this bicycle himself, including assembling this hub - remarkable!

Vintage Brooks B66 saddle, NOS Roadster saddlebag, rear rack.

Here is the entire bicycle again, from the non-chaindrive side. I should explain that I can't take digital photography seriously (as opposed to film photography), and therefore own no professional digital equipment. These photos were all taken with my tiny point-and-shoot camera. I could have done a much better job with proper equipment. Any suggestions? But there I go, getting ahead of myself again.

A few have already asked me about the location in these photos. All I can say, is that it is my secret magical bike photography spot, and the same "nice" neighborhood discussed in this post. It is ridiculously scenic and resembles England, which is why I thought the vintage Raleigh would look especially at home against this backdrop. I hope you enjoyed the photos of this magnificent bicycle and thank you A.T. for the permission to post these. Additional pictures of this bicycle can be viewed here.

If you have questions about this Raleigh DL-1, please contact the knowledgeable and friendly somervillain.

A Most Excellent Adventure :: Tracy Arm

Friday, August 27th - - Continuing on our cruise through the Tracy Arm to the Sawyer Glaciers...

We passed by interesting waterfalls...
And got mighty close to this one...
There were mysterious looking valleys...
As well as gigantic granite cliffs...
And another tour boat on its way out of the glacier's cove...

Anticipation was building as we got closer to the glaciers and saw more and more ice in the water.

Mt. Rainier, Tahoma Glacier

We had been wanting to climb the Tahoma Glacier for quite a while and finally got our chance. We started out on a Friday at a locked gate on the Westside Road. Two of us walked while two rode mountain bikes for the first 3.5 miles of the closed section of the old Westside Road. It seems like climbs with long approaches have great scenery along the way. This was no exception. One of the first sights were these towering Columnar basalt cliffs that are hundreds of feet high.



Crossing a footbridge over the South Puyallup River.



Avalanche Lilies growing alongside the trail.



Our objective: the Tahoma Glacier, flowing from the summit down the west side of Rainier. This photo was actually taken after the climb. On our ascent, we had to find our way up the Puyallup Cleaver (left of center) in the fog and wind. We finally climbed out of the fog at the 8,000' level and found a place to bivy. After 2 hours of "sleep," when most people we know were just going to bed, we got up and continued up the cleaver to the 10,000' level. It took quite a while to find a way around the cliffs and down onto the glacier. That's when the real fun began...finding a way through the maze of huge crevasses.



A drop-off on one side and a deep crevasse on the other! Mt. St. Helens in the background.



There were huge crevasses everywhere! Each one is different and amazing. You just want to stand there and look at the layers of snow, icicles and giant features of snow and ice that hang and span from one side to the other. There is nothing like seeing one of these up close and in person.



Our rope team moving up a steep section.



Ron climbing a snow ramp to the upper lip of another big crevasse.



The team crossing a snow bridge to get by another one.



Slow and steady progress on a smooth part of the glacier.



Ron, David, Doug (and Mark) on the summit.



This debris filled crevasse was easy to cross.



We wanted a challenge and we got it! With a low camp and a lot of route finding challenges, we ended up summiting late and then spent a couple of hours on the descent that afternoon postholing up to our knees in soft snow. The 3 quarts of water that we each started out with was not enough. We ate a lot of snow on the way down. We finally made it back down to camp 24 hours after we started! Needless to say, we slept really good that night! Since we summited on Saturday, we were able to take our time getting up and heading out on Sunday. We were all smiles as we headed back down to the treeline, stopping to look back at least a dozen times. This climb starts way lower than most on Rainier and it has a lot of big ups and downs. When we got back to the trailhead, the GPS unit indicated that we had climbed 15,000 vertical feet over a distance of 32 miles. It's no wonder we were tired. It was a weekend well spent making memories with good friends! Out of all the climbs we have done, we all agree that this was one of the best!